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Much of the coverage of this condition has come in the form of horror stories about professionals who rely on their noses, such as chefs, sommeliers and food critics. But the consequences of widespread anosmia are likely to be sweeping.

If the problem persists, restaurants and food producers will be forced to answer a question that would have sounded preposterous in 2019: What happens when the nation’s most enthusiastic eaters switch to a diet of cereal and onion sandwiches?

Adrift in the world MINZY Time Spent with Rabbits and Beer is Never Wasted Poster

For those cut off from earthly odors, the fate of food trends isn’t an urgent concern. Smell is so intrinsic to human relationships that mothers who can no longer pick up a scent when they kiss their babies’ heads say they feel their maternal bond fraying. The aroma of a sugar-free candy wrapper or spent tobacco is often the only remaining connection to a grandparent who died years ago.

“I felt adrift in a world I thought was familiar,” said food writer Harold McGee, who briefly and ironically lost his sense of smell while working on his latest book, Nose Dive: A Field Guide to the World’s Smells.

“Going for a run in the evening, you smell what people are cooking,” McGee continued. “When I went by, there were no smells. No smells of flowers; no smells from the street. All those little things that help situate you as you make your way through life, those signposts were not there. It’s really disturbing and dangerous.”

With so many people now desperate to reclaim their olfactory abilities, “smell training,” which involves prolonged periods of inhaling essential oils and conjuring associated memories, is becoming a familiar concept. Sufferers who seek help on social media are usually advised to burn an orange peel and wave it around.

McGee didn’t try either approach. He paid close attention to what he could smell, and wrote while he waited.

In his new book, McGee delves deeply into the molecular composition of hundreds of recognizable smells. For instance, when mandarin orange juice dries on your fingers, what you might describe as hints of something fresh and fruity is actually the interplay of ethyl methylbutyrate, myrcene and linalool.

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